Meet the Most Influential Man Behind Montalcino's Wine Scene

We know some exceptionally talented people in the wine world, but every so often you meet someone operating on an entirely different level. Fabio Tassi is one of those people. His understanding of wine, and of Montalcino in particular, is so deep it almost feels inherited. If you told us he had a direct line back to Dionysus, we wouldn’t argue.

Fabio’s passion for Montalcino runs far deeper than producing elegant, high-scoring Brunello prized by collectors around the globe. That’s part of the story, sure. But the bigger picture is his relentless dedication to protecting the region’s history and elevating its wines as a whole.

Enoteca la Fortezza

The Tassi family has long made its own wine, but anyone who has spent time in Montalcino knows them just as well for something else. They are the stewards of Enoteca la Fortezza, one of the most respected wine shops in Italy.

The enoteca sits inside the walls of an ancient fortress perched high above town, offering sweeping 360-degree views of Montalcino. Built in 1361 by the Republic of Siena to keep invaders out, the fortress now does the opposite. Visitors walk the ramparts, then step inside to explore a carefully curated collection of Brunello from producers across the region.

The Rising Tide of Montalcino

Few people are as selflessly devoted to Montalcino as Fabio Tassi. When he took over ownership of the Fortezza in 2002, he brought with him a clear mission: to preserve, showcase, and celebrate the best Brunello from every corner of the appellation.

His focus is diversity and quality. The collection serves as a true reference point for lovers of great wine, spanning biodynamic and organic producers, modern and traditional styles, and impossibly rare bottles from tiny estates most people have never heard of. It’s not about spotlighting one name. It’s about lifting the entire region together.

Still, Fabio's commitment to the cause doesn't end there. He partnered with Silvia Fertonani to create Brunellowineonline.com, an online extension of the wine shop dedicated to bringing a new depth of knowledge to their life's work.

A look into the impressive wine cellar inside the fortress. 

Praise for Tassi Wines

We were lucky enough to spend an afternoon with Fabio during one of our team trips to Tuscany. While he’s not out evangelizing for all things Montalcino, his focus is clear: making wines under the Tassi label. This is the true heart of his passion.

Fabio isn’t fond of industrial wines. Even when technically well made, he finds them generic, boring, and lacking personality. In his view, small imperfections give wine character—they’re the grit that defines its identity. He treats winemaking like conducting a symphony: his hand is just one instrument, and he knows how every subtle detail shapes the final composition.

Take the 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Franci. It’s a wine unlike any other. Every layer—from fruit to spice to the smallest aromatic nuances—is perfectly arranged. Robert Parker awarded it 94 points, noting, “This wine veers toward the ethereal and away from the obvious fruit and berry tones you get with less sophisticated Sangiovese. In fact, this is a wine that seemingly basks in the Brunello spotlight with all the small, enticing details and aromatic trimming you should expect of a wine of this craftsmanship.”

It’s a wine that showcases everything Fabio believes in: personality, precision, and the magic that happens when passion meets skill.

Tassi's restaurant features insanely good Tuscan dishes and plenty of local wines.

If you consider yourself a serious Brunello enthusiast and haven’t tried one of Tassi’s wines, make it a priority. You won’t be disappointed.

And if you find yourself in Montalcino, don’t miss a visit to his restaurant, Locanda Franci, just across from the Fortezza. We enjoyed a spectacular lunch there, overflowing with classic Tuscan dishes, naturally paired with Tassi’s wines. It’s one of those experiences that makes you appreciate the region — and the man — just a little more.